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Machado, John  
#1 Posted : Tuesday, December 6, 2005 12:00:00 AM(UTC)
Machado, John

Rank: Newbie

Joined: 11/7/2005(UTC)
Posts: 0

I tried turning off the autofloor on an existing design and nothing happened. Does it only work on NEW drawings. The workaround via Paint did work. I drew a very small square and other than having the square appear on the floorplan, I got the grid back. Again, thanks for the replies
bagby  
#2 Posted : Saturday, July 24, 2010 12:00:00 AM(UTC)
bagby

Rank: Newbie

Joined: 7/13/2010(UTC)
Posts: 16

(I'm not sure this is the right forum, having been confused to death by the various version names. This is "professional home design Platinum version 12.0.3" according to Help -> About Whether that equates to "pro platinum" I don't know, but it's my best guess.) Don't mean to necro-post but this is pertinent. I'm just having an issue trying to follow this advice. In floor view, draw a rectangular room, using the free-form interior wall tool. The dimensions don't matter for this, just make it a comfortable size to view without scrolling either way. Select one of the walls, the popup verifies that, yes, this is an interior wall. Call it the first wall Select either adjacent wall. The popup again verifies that it's an interior wall. Call it the second wall. Change the second wall to "exterior". Now select the first wall again. Observe that it, too, has changed to "Exterior". Notice that the walls change dependently -- first wall and second wall are always the same type. Change one, the other changes to the same type. Now delete the first wall. Extend the second wall past its former junction with the first wall -- that is, make the second wall longer. With the interior wall tool, redraw the first wall in the same place it was, so that it now forming a "T" at the join with the second wall, instead of a square corner as it did before. Select the second wall and notice that it's still exterior. Select the first wall and notice that it is interior, as it should be. Change either and notice that they now change independently of the other. My question is, how can I control this behavior? How can I, in the first example where the walls form a square corner, make them change independently of each other as they do in the second example? How can I, in the second example where they form a "T", link the walls so that they are each the same type as the other, as in the first example? Until I can do this, I can't get the walls right and it's really complicating life. I'm having to do all kinds of workarounds and temporary walls, deletions, re-draws to make it sort-of work.
Patricia G.  
#3 Posted : Saturday, July 24, 2010 12:00:00 AM(UTC)
Patricia G.

Rank: Advanced Member

Joined: 11/1/2002(UTC)
Posts: 7,631

Thanks: 8 times
Was thanked: 141 time(s) in 139 post(s)
Hi bagby, In my opinion, (for V12 versions and older) the best options are 1 - Use the exterior wall to create the perimeter of the room or house --> set height, thickness, etc 2 - Use the interior wall tool to create the interior walls --> set height, thickness, etc When you draw 2 or more walls and you join them using the mouse, you will notice that they will "fuse", and instead of two or three different walls you will have a set of walls, with the same properties (thickness included) However, if you join them using the arrows (keyboard) the walls will be together, but they will not fuse, therefore they will not share their properties, so you can use different thickness Other important rules regarding walls and elevations 1 - To set the objects, walls, etc at the right elevation, you need to define the ceiling heights. To do this--> Design--> Default Ceiling Heights--> set the exact height of each level. By default, they are 96", this means that (if you don't set your custom heights) Punch will set the second floor at 96" from the grass and the 3rd floor at 192" from the grass 2 - If you have an exterior wall with Autofloor= 12" (for example) and you insert a door, the door elevation will be 0", because the door elevation is related with the wall. Same situation with the windows But if you are going to insert a table on the floor, the object elevation is related with the grass (floor of the Punch world), so the table's elevation will be 12" Therefore, if your exterior walls have 10'-0", but you are using an Autofloor with 12" (1'), the ceiling elevation should be 11'-0" Always remember 3 things --> The ceiling elevation is the bottom face of the ceiling. This means that if you the floor of the second floor (for example) is @ 108", and your 1st floor has a ceiling of 12", the ceiling elevation will be 96" and the settings of the cutout (if you have one) will be the same: elevation at 96"and thickness= 12" --> If you used Autofloor in the 1st floor, the ceiling elevation will be the walls' height + the Autofloor thickness (as described above) --> If you used a floor in the upper floor, you must consider this thickness in the floor cut Patricia
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bagby  
#4 Posted : Tuesday, July 27, 2010 12:00:00 AM(UTC)
bagby

Rank: Newbie

Joined: 7/13/2010(UTC)
Posts: 16

The table example explains a lot of behavior I thought was really strange, thanks! It never occurred to me that you could use the keys instead of the mouse to lengthen a wall. That makes it easier. I'm still bemused by whoever thought that you didn't need a grid inside the house.
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